Mexico’s highest peak
As Well as the third highest peak in North America.
With Mount Logan at 19,551 ft being second. and Denali 20,308 being first.
Pico De Orizaba is a volcano standing 18,500 feet above sea level. Located in the Veracruz-Puebla area of Mexico. Being a Volcano with its snowcapped peak is very prominent to the surrounding high plains type landscape. It also casts a big shadow.
Climbing Pico De Orizaba
The route we took was up the Jamapa Glacier on the north side of the mountain. While not a technical climb, the constant grind at elevation was definitely difficult.
When we climbed Pico there were no visible crevasses. Nonetheless at the bottom of the glacier where we put on our crampons. I struck my ice axe into the ground and it made a very hollow sound.
The conditions on the mountain during our climb November 9, 2017 were incredibly icy and in the week(s) following claimed the lives of some climbers.
1,000 vertical feet below the summit of Pico De Orizaba the glacier is very steep. I found myself using a mixture of side steps and the “French Step”. At this point it would have been nice to have a technical ice axe as well. More so due to the icy conditions than the pitch of the mountain.
Summiting Pico De Orizaba
Stepping off at one thirty A.M. we were on the summit by approximately seven A.M.. Watching the sunrise from the snow slopes was breathtaking.
The final ridge to the summit revealed the volcano’s massive caldera to climbers left. With jagged rocks forming a massive cavern, shaped by some massive geological event.
On this day we were the only climbing group to summit. I believe this was because of the very dangerous icy conditions. It seems that Pico De Orizaba is a fairly popular mountain to climb. To be on the summit with only a few friends was a truly awesome experience.
Descending from Pico De Orizaba summit
Our exit route was a little more to the west of the route that we traveled up. Slightly longer but not quite as steep made for a still very icy but relatively quick and easy descent. The last five hundred maybe one thousand vertical feet we were able to glissade during our descent. Returning to where we put our crampons on hours ago, we now took them off and made our way back to the climber’s hut.
What I was given from Pico De Orizaba
There are some memories I will remember from this trip forever. One that stands out, was watching the sunrise from the slopes of Orizaba. On such a cold morning, having my face painted with warm and rich colors of sun piercing through atmosphere. Looking down at unfamiliar landscape. In a place I had never been.
I don’t think words can do it justice, it’s something you need to experience for yourself..
Mexico is an amazing place, the culture, the food and the available outdoor exploration. If you’re looking to appease an adventurous spirit and have never been, I would highly recommend it!
